Amidst the heat, chill and smattering of rain over the past week, New York’s streets were peppered with sartorial elites scoping out the Spring/Summer season offerings from designers all over the world. We revisit five notable New York Fashion Week collections from over one hundred runway shows and presentations:
Maryam Nassir Zadeh wowed the audience with her bold visions of the “Acid Mediterranean” in an experimental collection where more was better: fine silks were collaged with woven plastics to present a diverse range of materials and silhouettes in a clash of the natural and synthetic. Although frothy at times, with long tiered skirts and an excess of neckline ruffles, the designs were easy-going—even sporty—and confidently thrown together in the spirit of spontaneous travel. Standouts were the delicate pieces: silk mesh and floral vellums made light-as-air blouses a perfect option for warmer months. Transparency permeated the collection in handbags, footwear and belts that boasted patent leathers and glitter textures. Zadeh topped off her unlikely combinations with necklaces, bracelets and rings in vibrant tones. MNZ offered modern eclecticism at its finest: off-kilter zebra prints, pale green and yellowy plaid were unexpected, but nonchalantly pulled off.
A New York September drizzle on Wednesday evening had nothing on Amaka Osakwe’s electric sartorial parade. Knots, tassels and voluminous hemlines swished down the runway to thunderously catchy African beats. Sexy mesh inserts on slashed tees, slinky gowns in punchy hues and masterfully combined metallic and sheer fabrics made for a kaleidoscope of lustworthy separates. The designer’s use of knots to punctuate looser silhouettes, lengthen hemlines and tie together barely-there dresses was a highlight in a collection that has something for everyone: young and old, conservative and cutting-edge, laced-up and laid-back. Maki Oh’s contemporary masterpieces, which have been worn by the likes of Michelle Obama, Solange Knowles, Azalea Banks, captured the audience with its dynamism and unique aesthetic.
Hungarian designer Sandra Sandor debuted an Egyptian-inspired collection, fused with Wild Western Rodeo influences and elements of Greek mythology in an airy loft overlooking the Hudson River. Sumptuously draped dresses in satin jewel tones were paired with knotted fabric sandals, and vegan leather dresses with heritage stitching added structure and volume to the lineup of floaty silhouettes. Mini snap-button pochettes were worn across the body, and massive tote bags made an unmissable statement: there was no in-between. Nanushka clearly has your wardrobe sorted for summer: editors gushed over the cropped blousons in retro hues, light-as-air dresses and leopard-print wide-leg trousers, not to mention the brand’s jewelry debut of artful serpentine-inspired pieces. Guests sipped on Paloma cocktails made with Gem & Bolt Mezcal, listened to a soothing sound bath and left one of the most positively-reviewed presentations of the season (if the floods of Instagram stories were any indication) with keepsakes of Nanushka eye masks and scrunchies.
Boldly declaring neon yellow the color of the season, Christian Siriano’s unapologetically fanciful Spring/Summer collection was inspired by Hawaii’s vibrant spirit and floral motifs. Instead of offering a literal interpretation of the Aloha State’s island-y charm, however, Siriano threw some grittier urban influences from the streets of New York into the mix. The result? An excess of animal print, daring silhouettes that still looked ladylike, and fresh combinations of neons and florals set amidst black panelling, authoritatively setting the tone for the spring/summer season as undeniably feminine. Stunning yellow gown aside, the show notably featured several looks worn by plus-size models. The dresses epitomized chic, but the show was not without a political statement: a V-neck tee that read “Vote for Cynthia” was sure to have been received well by Nixon (despite her recent defeat in Thursday’s primary to Gov. Andrew Cuomo), who sat front row. This may be the collection that gets people talking about Siriano again.
Inspired by the unconventional beauties of the 1960s, Marina Moscone served up crisp tailoring alongside ethereal dresses for Spring 2019, showcasing the best of masculine and feminine-inspired attire in one brilliant NYFW debut. Executed with grace and restraint, the season’s collection invoked artist Piero Manzoni’s Achrome series, and Lucio Fontana’s slash series: the latter translated into hand-treated, thread-embroidered fabrics for a soft-edge effect.
Shapes like streamlined trousers were simple; pared-down to highlight more sculptural construction elsewhere. The collection balanced somber sophistication with resort-ready wares such as canvas carry-alls, oversized polo-style tunics, pleated handkerchief skirts and slip dresses.The collection also introduced Marina Moscone’s new accessories categories: three earring styles and a hand-rendered cuff in 14kt gold and silver. Two styles—a masculine flat and a block heel sandal—also mark the designer’s first forays into footwear. Moscone’s gorgeously feminine designs evoke a European appeal, and are always rendered with deep artistry and a light touch.