'Traditional Greek Home Cooking' at Elea on the Upper West Side


Off the menu

‘Traditional Greek Home Cooking’ at Elea on the Upper West Side

Pickles at Industry City in Sunset Park, Edward Huang’s Taiwanese fare in a Midtown food hall, and more restaurant news.

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Elea, from the team behind Kyma, promises dishes like braised gigantes beans with tomatoes and feta, and roasted cauliflower fritters.CreditCreditAlfredo Chiarappa for The New York Times
  • Oct. 16, 2018

Kyma, an established Greek restaurant in Roslyn, N.Y., planted its flag in the Flatiron district this year, serving mostly Greek-style seafood in a bright, bustling setting. Now, Reno Christou, who heads the group behind these establishments, has opened another taste of Greece, this time on the Upper West Side. The ground floor has a central bar and seats all around, with a fairly intimate 40-seat dining room off to one side. It’s just the beginning, since downstairs, the spacious main dining room can accommodate 130 people with an appetite not just for seafood, as at Kyma, but also for what the director of operations, Joe Ragonese, describes as “more traditional, Greek home cooking.” The chef, David Perez, was at Estiatorio Milos. There are braised gigantes beans with tomatoes and feta, roasted cauliflower fritters and grilled sausages among the starters, in addition to raw-bar items and the typical spreads like skordalia. Main courses are split about 50-50 meat to fish. “We think it will be a different clientele in this location,” Mr. Ragonese said. “And we also think that what Elea offers would be easier to replicate in other neighborhoods.” The room is done in beige accented with white, with vintage pottery accents.

217 West 85th Street, 212-369-9800, eleanyc.com.

The long-awaited underground bar at Cote, the Korean steakhouse in the Flatiron district, has opened. It’s dark, yet filled with greenery. Sondre Kasin is the mixologist in charge of creations like Rain (a gin drink with pear, lemon juice, shiso leaf and ginger) and Cola Nerve Tonic (made with rye, lavender-infused sweet vermouth, Campari and tonka beans). Salt figures in several of the cocktails, and the martini is made with orange bitters. There is no food menu, though complimentary bar bites are offered.

16 West 22nd Street, no phone, cotenyc.com; reservations from janus@undercotenyc.com.

Fermentation rules at this Sunset Park, Brooklyn, spot, which was in Park Slope but closed more than two years ago. It is now an annex to Brooklyn Brine’s production facility in the Industry City development. The vegan menu includes items like a tofu banh mi and macaroni with vegan “cheese” and coconut “bacon.” Pickles are sold. The plant and the cafe are owned by Shamus Jones.

67 35th Street (Third Avenue), Sunset Park, Brooklyn, 877-219-0256, brooklynbrine.com.

The cook and writer Edward Huang’s quick take on home-style Taiwanese fare, already featured at Turnstyle Underground Market in the Columbus Circle subway station, has opened in the Midtown food hall Urbanspace at 570 Lex, serving rice bowls, noodles and pork buns.

570 Lexington Avenue (51st Street), zailainyc.com.

The children of the chef Denisse Lina Chavez, the well-respected native of Puebla, Mexico, are now running Antojitos El Atoradero, inside Parklife, the Gowanus, Brooklyn, bar and entertainment space. Antojitos El Atoradero opened in Parklife last summer.

Mr. Karangis has moved from a position as executive chef at Union Square Events, the catering branch of Danny Meyer’s Union Square Hospitality Group, to become the executive chef and vice president in charge of culinary innovation for the Shake Shack chain.

The Manhattan branch of the Canadian-style smoked meat and sandwich spot has closed after six years. The owners wanted to concentrate on the original site in Brooklyn, which Noah Bernamoff opened in 2010. (He is no longer involved.) The Brooklyn location will eventually expand into the adjacent storefront, allowing more seating. The company has added a branch in Nashville, and will soon open one in Birmingham, Ala.

Florence Fabricant is a food and wine writer. She writes the weekly Front Burner and Off the Menu columns, as well as the Pairings column, which appears alongside the monthly wine reviews. She has also written 12 cookbooks.

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