As the Men’s Wear Brigade Descends on Paris, the Show Roster Grows – The New York Times


As the Men’s Wear Brigade Descends on Paris, the Show Roster Grows

Hedi Slimane’s Celine, Kris Van Assche’s Berluti and a few of Japan’s cult favorites are scheduled to take their bows.

  • Jan. 14, 2019
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Jonathan AndersonCreditStuart Wilson/BFC, via Getty Images for The British Fashion Council

When men’s fashion week begins Tuesday in Paris, the industry professionals who make the twice-yearly rounds of London, Florence and Milan will encounter something out of the ordinary: an official calendar rich with new entrants. The schedule has been growing, not contracting, like those of its counterparts.

For show fans, there will be plenty to see — either in person or online. And, like recent seasons, it all is scheduled to start a day earlier. Milan’s men’s week used to stretch into Tuesday, with Giorgio Armani, the city’s éminence grise, closing out the festivities. Now it’s step lively to Linate Airport: Tuesday in Paris is chockablock with shows.

To begin — with the first show on the official calendar — there is Heron Preston, the New York-based D.J. turned style arbiter, who has scheduled his first Paris runway show. Mr. Preston, who previously built a collection and show in New York around his fascination with Department of Sanitation uniforms, now has been taking inspiration from the uniforms of the Transportation Security Administration. Whether its employees, who have been working without pay during the government shutdown, will be bolstered by this show of support remains to be seen.

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Heron PrestonCreditAndrew Toth/Getty Images

Two of Japanese fashion’s cult idols who lately have stayed largely behind the scenes also will be taking to the runway, both having primed the pump last year with shows at Pitti Uomo, the Florence trade show that each season invites guest designers to present collections.

Fumito Ganryu, who rose through the ranks of Comme des Garçons until he had his own Ganryu label there, left the company in 2017 and has since begun a line under his own name. His first Paris show is scheduled Tuesday afternoon.

Takahiro Miyashita, who was a hero to men’s wear fanatics for his psychedelic-surrealist Number (N)ine label (1997-2009), returned to fashion with a label called The Soloist, whose exquisite oddity was presented simply in showroom settings in its early seasons. His first Paris show, “Nocturne of Emotions,” is scheduled Tuesday night: “His take,” according to a statement, “on survival clothing to get through today’s reality.”

Joining these newcomers will be one of Japan’s most beloved masters, Issey Miyake, whose Homme Plissé line — for men who want Pleats, Please — is to stage its first presentation later in the week.

Jonathan Anderson has moved his show from London to Paris for the first time, with his J.W. Anderson label scheduled on Wednesday. A few women’s looks will be in the mix, a representative for Mr. Anderson said, but declined to share any further hints or details.

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Kris Van AsscheCreditEtienne Laurent/EPA, via Shutterstock

No rest for a newcomer: Mr. Anderson is planning a twofer. On Saturday, he is scheduled to put on his first full men’s runway show for Loewe, the LVMH-owned, Madrid-based label where he is creative director — although the “Yellow Vest” populist protests that have roiled Paris for the past nine Saturdays may complicate show-going logistics.

The LVMH Group and the family, often front row, of its chairman and chief executive Bernard Arnault will have a lot to see this week, and much of it new. At Berluti, Kris Van Assche, an 11-year veteran of Dior, will unveil his first full collection. But the most anticipation will most likely be reserved for another former Dior designer, Hedi Slimane, who was brought back into the LVMH fold (from the clutches of its major competitor, the Kering group, where for three years he ran its Saint Laurent label), to make merry with Celine (née Céline).

Mr. Slimane’s first Celine show in September, during the women’s week in Paris, raised the usual paroxysms of delight and dismay.

If nothing else is certain, at least this is: chatter, guaranteed.

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